Catriona Nunn Paris has a way of drawing people into its rich tapestry of history and culture. For nearly a decade alumna, Heidi Evans, has wandered its streets, uncovering and telling the hidden stories of remarkable women who have shaped this iconic city. As she prepares to leave, Heidi reflects on the journey that has made her a true Parisienne at heart.
“When I first arrived in Paris, I was just another twenty-something graduate, frustrated with London’s grind and ready for a change. The daily cycle through the chaotic streets of London, navigating endless commutes, and enduring the maze of unpaid internships had left me yearning for something different, something that felt more like home. I’d spent years trying to find my place in London, but the city, with all its opportunities, never quite felt like it fit. So, when Roberta, a university friend from my days at York, suggested I move to Paris and work as a tour guide, it didn’t take much convincing. The idea of reinventing myself in a city as iconic as Paris was too enticing to pass up. Six months later, I found myself in the City of Light, ready for a new adventure.
Paris is a city that draws you in, wraps you up in its history, and challenges you to see the world differently. My journey here has been shaped by the streets I’ve wandered, the stories I’ve uncovered, and the people I’ve met along the way. I remember those early days vividly—moving into a tiny Parisian apartment, navigating the city’s winding streets, and immersing myself in French culture. It felt like stepping into a new life, one where every corner of the city held a new story, every day a new lesson.
“Paris is a city that draws you in, wraps you up in its history, and challenges you to see the world differently.”
From the very beginning, working as a tour guide felt like a perfect fit. I joined Sandemans, a company known for its free walking tours, and quickly immersed myself in Paris’s rich history. It was an exhilarating experience, though in hindsight, my early tours were a bit of a baptism by fire. Armed with a basic script and an eagerness to explore, I led groups of tourists through the city, sharing stories that were as new to me as they were to them. I had been in Paris for just over a month when I started, and looking back, I’m both amazed and embarrassed by how little I truly knew at the time. But Paris, with all its complexity, has a way of teaching you on the go. Over time, I grew more confident, my knowledge deepened, and I began to understand the city on a much more intimate level.
What struck me most as I delved deeper into the city’s history was the glaring absence of women in the stories we told. My tours covered the grand narratives of kings, battles, and revolutions, but where were the women? It was a question that lingered in my mind until one day, during a tour of the Latin Quarter, my aunt pointed out that I hadn’t mentioned any women at all. That moment was a turning point. Here I was, in one of the most historically rich cities in the world, and half the population was missing from the story.
“Here I was, in one of the most historically rich cities in the world, and half the population was missing from the story.”
Inspired by this realisation, I launched ‘Women of Paris’, a series of walking tours dedicated to telling the often-overlooked stories of the women who helped shape this city. I wanted to create something different, something that would challenge the traditional narratives and offer a fresh perspective on Parisian history. These tours explore everything from the contributions of iconic figures like Marie Curie to lesser-known heroines such as Joanna van Gogh, the sister-in-law of Vincent van Gogh, who played a pivotal role in bringing his art to the world after his death. It’s incredible how many people, even those well-versed in art history, are unaware of Joanna’s crucial contribution to Vincent’s posthumous fame. She is just one of the many women whose stories I’ve been privileged to uncover and share.
Creating these tours has been both a challenge and a joy. Initially, I struggled to find the right balance between providing informative content and ensuring the tours were enjoyable and manageable in length. My first attempt at a ‘Women of Paris’ tour was four hours long—a bit too ambitious, I realised! But I was so eager to share all the stories I’d uncovered that I crammed them all in. Over time, I learned to craft a more concise and engaging experience that left participants both educated and inspired. The tours now run around two hours, the perfect length for exploring the city without wearing out my guests.
One of the most rewarding aspects of ‘Women of Paris’ has been the opportunity to connect with people from all over the world and to share with them a side of Paris that often goes unnoticed. Visitors are often surprised by how much they didn’t know about the women who have influenced Paris. For instance, on our literary tour, many are shocked to learn that the ‘Shakespeare and Company’ bookstore, now a Parisian icon, was founded by Sylvia Beach, a woman who courageously championed the works of James Joyce and other modernist writers. It’s stories like these that make the tours so special—not just for the participants, but for me as well.
Paris, as much as I love it, is not without its challenges. The city can be a tough place, especially for those of us trying to carve out a niche in the cultural and tourism sectors. There’s a certain bureaucracy here, a rigid set of rules and expectations that can make it difficult to innovate. However, I’ve now obtained my licence so can now officially do tours anywhere! For example, inside museums like the Musée d’Orsay, it’s a part of what makes Paris, Paris—a city that demands respect for its traditions even as it continues to evolve.
“I’ve become a woman of Paris in my own right, and that’s something I’ll carry with me wherever I go.”
As much as I’ve enjoyed my time in Paris, my journey here is approaching a new phase. After nearly a decade of living in this vibrant city, I’ve made the bittersweet decision to move back to the UK. The pull of family and a desire to be closer to loved ones have become more vital as the years have passed. I have two nephews now, and the thought of missing out on their lives, of not being there as they grow up, has weighed heavily on me. My grandmother, who recently lost her husband, also needs support, and I feel that it’s time to be closer to home.
This decision hasn’t been easy. Paris has become a part of me in ways I never expected. It’s a city that, despite its challenges, has adopted me as one of its own. I’ve become a woman of Paris in my own right, and that’s something I’ll carry with me wherever I go. The city has shaped me, just as I’ve tried to leave my mark on it through ‘Women of Paris’.
Before I leave, I’m working on a few more projects for ‘Women of Paris’, including the creation of an audio tour and possibly expanding the company’s reach. One project I’m particularly excited about is a tour focused on women in art at the Musée d’Orsay. It’s something I’ve been passionate about for a long time, and I hope to see it realised before my time in Paris comes to an end.
Reflecting on my years in Paris, I feel immense pride in what I’ve built. The tours have not only brought these incredible women’s stories to life but have also given me a deep connection to this city—a city that, despite its challenges, has adopted me as one of its own. And as I prepare for the next chapter of my life, I do so with the knowledge that I’ve left a small, yet meaningful, mark on the city I now call home.
Recently I was inspired by the women’s march on Versailles to create one of our new tours (Liberté, Egalité, Marché) which focuses on women’s role in the revolution. It also ties in with the Olympics and the Paris Marathon route.
As I look back on my time in Paris, I’m filled with gratitude for the experiences I’ve had, the people I’ve met, and the stories I’ve had the privilege to tell. ‘Women of Paris’ has been more than just a business—it’s been a journey of discovery, both of the city and of myself. And while I may be leaving Paris, the impact of my time here will remain with me forever.”
Living in Paris or travelling there soon? Join our next monthly alumni social in Paris on Thursday 24 October at 7pm, where you can meet, reconnect and network with fellow UK alumni! Book your place and find full details through the British Council platform.
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